Pressed rose, wild berry, smoke and dried Alpine herb aromas emerge from the glass. The graceful palate offers red cherry, cranberry and star anise alongside a salty mineral note while deft tannins provide lithe support. Fans of concentrated, muscular wines may find it too ethereal but lovers of finesse will be smitten. Drink through 2026.

The 2017 Valtellina Superiore II Pettirosso is laced with sweet dried cherry, tobacco, orange peel, mint, cinnamon and dried herbs. Open-knit and inviting, the 2017 will drink well for at least a handful of years.