Wild berry, rose petal, smoke, new leather and alpine-herb aromas make for a delicate bouquet. Focused and savory, the bright, elegant palate delivers cranberry, pomegranate, white pepper and black tea framed in taut refined tannins and bright acidity. A tangy saline note lingers on the close. While some may find this almost too austere, if you love finesse you'll be captivated. Drink through 2027.

The 2012 Valtellina Superiore Inferno Fiamme Antiche speaks with power and authoritativeness. Still a bit tightly wound, the 2012 could also use a bit more time in bottle, especially to develop the full breadth of its aromatics. Iron, red cherry, mint, licorice and earthy notes build in a Valtellina that is all about persistence.